Mark your calendars, the AMGA Annual Meeting is headed to Red Rock, Nevada, October 17-24. You can find all the details (as we update them) HERE.

**************Comments DUE Thursday, 10/27********************   

We are deeply concerned about the current threat to guiding access in our country’s National Park System. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park wants to completely ban guided climbing, which has a 50-year history in this unique climbing venue. This proposed ban does not only impact this incredible park in Colorado. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing in National Parks across the country. If you care about preserving wilderness guided climbing access in venues such as Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Rocky Mountain National Park, New River Gorge and other important guiding venues, please read on.

The Black Canyon Backcountry Management Plan wants to ban guiding because “guided climbing does not support the goal for the inner canyon zone of providing a visitor experience that is challenging, self-reliant, and adventurous.” The NPS is making an uncanny argument for why guided climbing is no longer necessary in the Park. Your clients, friends and fellow climbers (who are not guides) need to submit comments to the Park. We have been told that the Park has already heard from guides, and what they really need are comments from the general public and clients.

What can you do now?

1. Email your client list, friends and fellow climbers today urging them to submit a comment by Oct. 27th. Use Facebook, your website, blog and any other communication vehicles to get the word out to your clients.

2. See below for a sample email to your clients, friends and fellow climbers.

It’s in all of our interests to raise awareness and take action on this important issue today. The deadline for comments is Thursday, October 27th. Thank you for supporting the future of the profession in the U.S.

For more information, visit http://parkplanning.nps.gov

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The National Park Service wants to ban guided climbing and prohibit members of the public from being able to climb with a professional guide in one of our country’s most adventurous wilderness climbing areas. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing access in National Parks across the country. We are requesting your urgent support to help preserve guided climbing access in the Black Canyon as well as in other National Parks the U.S.

Here is how you can help:

Send an email to Ken_Stahlnecker@nps.gov today using the talking points below. Our goal is to have 500 people (who are not guides) contact Ken Stahlnecker opposing the Park’s plan to ban guided climbing in the Black Canyon and urging the Park to preserve guiding climbing access in this unique venue.

Dear Ken Stahlnecker,
Chief, Resource Stewardship and Science
National Park Service,
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

I am writing to urge you to keep guided climbing access available to the American public. Along with Yosemite National Park and Red Rocks National Conservation Area, the Black Canyon is one of only a few climbing venues in the country offering big wall climbing opportunities. There is often a scarcity of willing and adequate climbing partners to tackle the bold and remote terrain of the Black. Because climbing requires a team of two unless one is free soloing, my options for experiencing this unique wilderness area will be substantially reduced or eliminated altogether if guided climbing is banned in the Inner Canyon Zone.

Having the option to climb with a professional guide is necessary for me to be able to experience the vertical wilderness in the Black Canyon. Partnering with a professional guide will enhance my opportunity for an experience of adventure, challenge and self-reliance. I see no difference between climbing with a professional guide and climbing with a non-guide partner who happens to be stronger or more experienced than me. It is not uncommon for climbing partners to be of varying levels of experience. Climbing successfully in the Black always requires the self-reliance, commitment and personal fortitude of both climbing partners regardless of their varying experience levels.

Thank you for the opportunity to provide my opinion on this important matter.

The 2011 Annual Meeting is less than 2-weeks away and for those of you who would prefer to camp, we’ve arranged group camping for $10 per person/per night at the Creeks View Campground in Rosendale (~7 miles north of New Paltz).

The campground has tent-space for up-to 100 guests, has hot showers and hot water for washing dishes. To reserve your spot, contact Bill Munch – 845-658-9142 – let him know you are with the AMGA. Payment is cash only and is due upon arrival.

Creeks View Campground
$10 per night/per person
Located 7 miles north of New Paltz – take RT 32 into Rosendale, make a right on Creek Locks Road, about 1 mile down on left side is the campground.
Office number: 845-658-9142
Remember to let them know you’re with the AMGA

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Professional Development Clinics – REGISTER NOW!
With the Professional Development Clinics happening the first-two days of the Annual Meeting, we’re asking everyone to pre-register. Below you will find the clinic schedule – click HERE to go to the registration page. Email membership.director@amga.com, if you have any questions.

Wednesday, October 26

Professional Development Clinics – Meet at Mohonk Preserve Visitors Center

9:00am – 11:00am

The Body at Work – Physiology for Mountaineers by Dr. Mark Newton, W.L. Gore & Associates
A discussion of thermal physiology and its impact on heat loss, comfort and performance for Men and women working in extreme environments

9:00am – 12:00pm

GPS Navigation by Silas Rossi

Crevasse Rescue by Kevin Mahoney

Avalanche – Could a Guest Save Your Life by Steve Banks

Multi-Pitch Transitions by Karsten Delap

10:30am – 12:00pm

Guiding in EU/France by Geoff Unger & Matt Farmer

12:00pm – 2:00pm

GORE-TECH™ Clinic by the GORE-TEX® Products Team

12:30pm – 2:00pm

Decision Making – Human Factors for Mountain Guides by Margaret Wheeler

1:00pm – 4:00pm

Short Roping by Joey Thompson

Single Pitch Systems by Ron Funderburke

2:30pm – 4:00pm

Dealing With Insurance Underwriters:  How Far Can We Go? by Don Pachner

Thursday, October 27

Professional Development Clinics – Meet at Mohonk Preserve Visitors Center

9:00am – 11:00am

GORE-TECH™ Clinic by the GORE-TEX® Products Team

9:00am – 12:00pm

GPS Navigation by Silas Rossi

Short Roping by Joey Thompson

Single Pitch Systems by Ron Funderburke

10:30am – 12:00pm

Decision Making – Human Factors for Mountain Guides by Margaret Wheeler

11:00am – 2:00pm

Leadership by Christian Santelices

12:00pm – 2:00pm

The Body at Work – Physiology for Mountaineers by Dr. Mark Newton, W.L. Gore & Associates
A discussion of thermal physiology and its impact on heat loss, comfort and performance for Men and women working in extreme environments

12:30pm – 2:00pm

Guiding in EU/France by Geoff Unger & Matt Farmer

1:00pm – 4:00pm

Crevasse Rescue by Kevin Mahoney

Avalanche – Could a Guest Save Your Life by Steve Banks

Multi-Pitch Transitions by Karsten Delap

2:30pm – 4:00pm

International Trip Planning by Christian Santelices

Permit Sharing by Don Pachner

Once again, to register for the Professional Development Clinics, click HERE.

American Mountain Guides Association Appoints Dale Remsberg as Technical Director

For Immediate Release

Betsy Winter
Executive Director
American Mountain Guides Association
betsy@amga.com

Boulder, Colorado, Oct 06, 2011 –

The AMGA is excited to introduce Dale Remsberg as the new Technical Director (TD) of the association. The TD is an incredibly important position within the AMGA who serves as the critical link between the technical and administrative branches of the AMGA and assists with the development and execution of the vision and strategic plan for all AMGA programs.

Dale comes to the TD position having been an integral part of the AMGA instructor team for the past five years. The last two years working as the Discipline Coordinator for the Alpine program where he successfully facilitated the implementation of the Ice Instructor Course.

Dale was raised in the North Cascade Mountains in the small mountain town of Winthrop, Washington. He started skiing at age 8 at the Loop Loop ski bowl and his attitude towards the mountains was quickly shaped with an affinity for adventure and exploration. His first climbing experience was a scramble with a high school buddy of Blue Peak in the Washington Pass group, which gave him a glimpse of climbers and their ability to climb the harder terrain. Shortly thereafter a solo of South Early Winter Spire resulted in a respect for that steeper terrain and a trip to the book store to buy all the how to books and guides. Dale started guiding for Cascade Alpine Guides in 1994 and then later for Mountain Madness roaming around the Cascades teaching mountaineering and rock climbing. In 2002 he and his wife Kristie moved to Colorado and in the spring of 2003 he took his first AMGA course. AMGA Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering certification quickly became the goal and was realized in 2006. Dale brings well-rounded climbing and guiding experience to the AMGA having guided difficult rock climbs, remote and elusive ice and mixed terrain in Canada as well as climbing and ski expeditions around the world. From 2003 to 2011 he worked at the Colorado Mountain School where he provided leadership as Head Guide for the last two years. Private guiding is now his focus. He runs a month long ice climbing trip to Canada every winter and custom rock, alpine and ski trips wherever the conditions are good. When not climbing or guiding you may find him training his Australian Shepherd or trying to break par on the links.

“It is with great pleasure that I introduce Dale Remsberg as the new Technical Director of the AMGA” says Betsy Winter, Executive Director. “Dale comes to us with a wealth of experience and expertise in the areas most relevant to the needs of the Technical Director position. His experience as AMGA Alpine Discipline Coordinator, AMGA Instructor Team member and AMGA Board Member will be extremely valuable as he works to oversee and lead the technical branch of the AMGA.”