American Mountain Guides Association

The AMGA Annual Meeting, presented by Gore Tex®, is just about four months away.  The following is the basic schedule of events:

Wednesday, October 17
SPI Provider Training

Thursday, October 18
SPI Provider Training
WFR Refresher
Leave no Trace Trainer Course

Friday, October 19
SPI Provider Training
WFR Refresher
Leave no Trace Trainer Course

Saturday, October 20
Professional Development Clinics
AMGA Technical Committee Meeting
Opening Night Event – Presented by GORE-TEX® & Marmot

Sunday, October 21
Professional Development Clinics
AMGA Board of Directors Meeting
Main Event – Presented by GORE-TEX®

Monday, October 22
Guides Olympics – Presented by GORE-TEX® and Eddie Bauer First Ascent
Round Table Discussion on Access sponsored by Arc’teryx
DYNO Bird Happy Hour sponsored by Arc’teryx

Tuesday, October 23
AMGA Instructor Team Training

Wednesday, October 24
AMGA Instructor Team Training

Details regarding registration, specific venues, camping/lodging will be coming very, very soon. Please continue to check back in for the latest updates.  Further postings will be on the Annual Meeting tab above in the menu.  Feel free to contact us if you have any questions at all:

303.271.0984 x2# / caroline@amga.com

By Betsy Winter, Executive Director

What do you get when you put hunters, fisherman, farmers, bikers, ranchers, paddlers, climbers, conservationists, tribal leaders, small business owners, local government leaders, federal representatives, mountain guides and the President of the United States all in a room together to discuss the link between conservation and strong economies? You get the White House Conference on Conservation.

The conference, Growing America’s Outdoor Heritage and Economy, held at the Department of Interior on Friday, March 2, explored the link between protecting public lands and strong local economies through tourism, outdoor recreation, and healthy environment.

As the U.S representative for professional mountain guides and climbing instructors, it was a huge honor for the American Mountain Guides Association to have been invited to participate in this monumental event.

It seems everywhere I have been going lately, from Outdoor Retailer tradeshow, to Outdoor Alliance Partnership Summit, to Stanford’s Conference on Commercial Services and the Wilderness Act, everyone is talking about partnerships, and the White House Conference on Conservation was no exception.

The aim of the conference was to bring together key stakeholders from around the nation to strengthen coalitions, explore successful partnerships, and to think collectively about what the future holds for our public lands, waterways and local economies.

With input from Nancy Sutley, Chair of the White House Council on Environmental Quality; Ken Salazar, Secretary of Interior; Tom Vilsack, Secretary of Agriculture; Lisa Jackson, Administrator of the Environmental Protection Agency; Jo-Ellen Darcy, Assistant Secretary of the Army (Civil Works), a select panel of grassroot advocates and President Barack Obama himself, it was clear that connecting people with America’s Great Outdoors, while also preserving our cultural heritage and wilderness legacy, and growing local economies, is something our current administration genuinely cares about and is working hard to address.

What this means for the guiding community is that our government seems to be concerned with many of the same issues that historically have had significant impacts on our profession- access, work visas, job security, and preservation of the land we all love and rely on to make our livings.

As the “uncommon dialogue” becomes more common, the AMGA will continue to advocate for, not only keeping our public lands and vertical wildernesses open to facilitated recreational experiences, but for a streamlined, systematic, and well-founded way to grant access for professional guides, educators and their clients.

To learn more about the White House Conference on Conservation view the summary found on the White House Blog. For a transcript and video of President Obama’s closing remarks click here.

Boulder, Colorado——- In response to the National Park Service’s recent draft proposal to prohibit guided climbing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Senator Mark Udall (D-CO), Senator Michael Bennet (D-CO), Senator Max Baucus (D-MT), and Representative Scott Tipton (R-CO) recently urged the National Park Service to reconsider the proposal.

In a joint letter written by Udall, Bennet and Baucus the Senators wrote, “While most climbers in the park choose not to climb with a guide, many do utilize guides, and we believe that given the extremely challenging nature of climbing in the Black Canyon, the option to climb with a guide should be available.” This sentiment was reinforced by Rep. Tipton, who wrote in his letter, “…if adopted, the Proposal will reduce opportunities for safe, facilitated wilderness recreation and education not only at the Black Canyon but also in other areas of our country’s great National Park System.”  Betsy Winter, Executive Director for the AMGA, applauded the congressional intervention and renewed the organization’s request for a suitable Wilderness management plan.

“The AMGA is grateful for the support of Senators Udall, Bennet, Baucus and Rep. Tipton, and shares their goal to protect the unique wilderness character of the Black Canyon.  Like our partners in Congress, the AMGA believes that sound wilderness management policy for the Black Canyon does not require elimination of a service that enhances safety, enjoyment, and personal growth for the countless visitors that choose to partner with a licensed guide when enjoying the legendary vertical challenges found only in the Black Canyon.  Consequently, the AMGA looks forward to working with our partners in Congress and in the National Park Service to ensure that visitors to the Black Canyon continue to have access to guided climbing in 2012 and beyond.

While the proposal to eliminate guided climbing access in the Black Canyon is still on the table, I am very encouraged by the support and attention our Senators and Congressmen have given to this very important issue. By far, this is one of the most consequential proposals our profession has faced, due to the potential negative impacts it could have on AMGA membership and the mountain guiding community at large. The AMGA and our constituents, therefore thank the members of Congress for taking notice of the concerns expressed by the climbing and guiding profession, and look forward to working with the National Park Service to reverse their draft proposal.”

About the American Mountain Guides Association
For over 30 years, the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) has inspired an exceptional client experience as the premier source for training, credentials, resource stewardship and services for professional mountain guides and climbing instructors in the United States. A national non-profit, the AMGA is committed to enhancing the quality of outdoor services provided to the public, while serving as a resource for accessing and protecting the natural environment. The AMGA is our nation’s exclusive representative to the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA), the international governing body responsible for guiding standards and education around the world. For more information please visit www.amga.com.

To access the full text from the congressional letters as well as video of Representative Tipton questioning NPS Director, Jon Jarvis on the proposal, please visit http://amga.com/about/BlackCanyon_Response.php.

Mark your calendars, the AMGA Annual Meeting is headed to Red Rock, Nevada, October 17-24. You can find all the details (as we update them) HERE.

**************Comments DUE Thursday, 10/27********************   

We are deeply concerned about the current threat to guiding access in our country’s National Park System. The Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park wants to completely ban guided climbing, which has a 50-year history in this unique climbing venue. This proposed ban does not only impact this incredible park in Colorado. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing in National Parks across the country. If you care about preserving wilderness guided climbing access in venues such as Yosemite, Joshua Tree, Rocky Mountain National Park, New River Gorge and other important guiding venues, please read on.

The Black Canyon Backcountry Management Plan wants to ban guiding because “guided climbing does not support the goal for the inner canyon zone of providing a visitor experience that is challenging, self-reliant, and adventurous.” The NPS is making an uncanny argument for why guided climbing is no longer necessary in the Park. Your clients, friends and fellow climbers (who are not guides) need to submit comments to the Park. We have been told that the Park has already heard from guides, and what they really need are comments from the general public and clients.

What can you do now?

1. Email your client list, friends and fellow climbers today urging them to submit a comment by Oct. 27th. Use Facebook, your website, blog and any other communication vehicles to get the word out to your clients.

2. See below for a sample email to your clients, friends and fellow climbers.

It’s in all of our interests to raise awareness and take action on this important issue today. The deadline for comments is Thursday, October 27th. Thank you for supporting the future of the profession in the U.S.

For more information, visit http://parkplanning.nps.gov

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The National Park Service wants to ban guided climbing and prohibit members of the public from being able to climb with a professional guide in one of our country’s most adventurous wilderness climbing areas. This is a national threat, which could set a debilitating precedent for guided climbing access in National Parks across the country. We are requesting your urgent support to help preserve guided climbing access in the Black Canyon as well as in other National Parks the U.S.

Here is how you can help:

Send an email to Ken_Stahlnecker@nps.gov today using the talking points below. Our goal is to have 500 people (who are not guides) contact Ken Stahlnecker opposing the Park’s plan to ban guided climbing in the Black Canyon and urging the Park to preserve guiding climbing access in this unique venue.

Dear Ken Stahlnecker,
Chief, Resource Stewardship and Science
National Park Service,
Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

I am writing to urge you to keep guided climbing access available to the American public. Along with Yosemite National Park and Red Rocks National Conservation Area, the Black Canyon is one of only a few climbing venues in the country offering big wall climbing opportunities. There is often a scarcity of willing and adequate climbing partners to tackle the bold and remote terrain of the Black. Because climbing requires a team of two unless one is free soloing, my options for experiencing this unique wilderness area will be substantially reduced or eliminated altogether if guided climbing is banned in the Inner Canyon Zone.

Having the option to climb with a professional guide is necessary for me to be able to experience the vertical wilderness in the Black Canyon. Partnering with a professional guide will enhance my opportunity for an experience of adventure, challenge and self-reliance. I see no difference between climbing with a professional guide and climbing with a non-guide partner who happens to be stronger or more experienced than me. It is not uncommon for climbing partners to be of varying levels of experience. Climbing successfully in the Black always requires the self-reliance, commitment and personal fortitude of both climbing partners regardless of their varying experience levels.

Thank you for the opportunity to provide my opinion on this important matter.

The 2011 Annual Meeting is less than 2-weeks away and for those of you who would prefer to camp, we’ve arranged group camping for $10 per person/per night at the Creeks View Campground in Rosendale (~7 miles north of New Paltz).

The campground has tent-space for up-to 100 guests, has hot showers and hot water for washing dishes. To reserve your spot, contact Bill Munch – 845-658-9142 – let him know you are with the AMGA. Payment is cash only and is due upon arrival.

Creeks View Campground
$10 per night/per person
Located 7 miles north of New Paltz – take RT 32 into Rosendale, make a right on Creek Locks Road, about 1 mile down on left side is the campground.
Office number: 845-658-9142
Remember to let them know you’re with the AMGA

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Professional Development Clinics – REGISTER NOW!
With the Professional Development Clinics happening the first-two days of the Annual Meeting, we’re asking everyone to pre-register. Below you will find the clinic schedule – click HERE to go to the registration page. Email membership.director@amga.com, if you have any questions.

Wednesday, October 26

Professional Development Clinics – Meet at Mohonk Preserve Visitors Center

9:00am – 11:00am

The Body at Work – Physiology for Mountaineers by Dr. Mark Newton, W.L. Gore & Associates
A discussion of thermal physiology and its impact on heat loss, comfort and performance for Men and women working in extreme environments

9:00am – 12:00pm

GPS Navigation by Silas Rossi

Crevasse Rescue by Kevin Mahoney

Avalanche – Could a Guest Save Your Life by Steve Banks

Multi-Pitch Transitions by Karsten Delap

10:30am – 12:00pm

Guiding in EU/France by Geoff Unger & Matt Farmer

12:00pm – 2:00pm

GORE-TECH™ Clinic by the GORE-TEX® Products Team

12:30pm – 2:00pm

Decision Making – Human Factors for Mountain Guides by Margaret Wheeler

1:00pm – 4:00pm

Short Roping by Joey Thompson

Single Pitch Systems by Ron Funderburke

2:30pm – 4:00pm

Dealing With Insurance Underwriters:  How Far Can We Go? by Don Pachner

Thursday, October 27

Professional Development Clinics – Meet at Mohonk Preserve Visitors Center

9:00am – 11:00am

GORE-TECH™ Clinic by the GORE-TEX® Products Team

9:00am – 12:00pm

GPS Navigation by Silas Rossi

Short Roping by Joey Thompson

Single Pitch Systems by Ron Funderburke

10:30am – 12:00pm

Decision Making – Human Factors for Mountain Guides by Margaret Wheeler

11:00am – 2:00pm

Leadership by Christian Santelices

12:00pm – 2:00pm

The Body at Work – Physiology for Mountaineers by Dr. Mark Newton, W.L. Gore & Associates
A discussion of thermal physiology and its impact on heat loss, comfort and performance for Men and women working in extreme environments

12:30pm – 2:00pm

Guiding in EU/France by Geoff Unger & Matt Farmer

1:00pm – 4:00pm

Crevasse Rescue by Kevin Mahoney

Avalanche – Could a Guest Save Your Life by Steve Banks

Multi-Pitch Transitions by Karsten Delap

2:30pm – 4:00pm

International Trip Planning by Christian Santelices

Permit Sharing by Don Pachner

Once again, to register for the Professional Development Clinics, click HERE.

American Mountain Guides Association Appoints Dale Remsberg as Technical Director

For Immediate Release

Betsy Winter
Executive Director
American Mountain Guides Association
betsy@amga.com

Boulder, Colorado, Oct 06, 2011 –

The AMGA is excited to introduce Dale Remsberg as the new Technical Director (TD) of the association. The TD is an incredibly important position within the AMGA who serves as the critical link between the technical and administrative branches of the AMGA and assists with the development and execution of the vision and strategic plan for all AMGA programs.

Dale comes to the TD position having been an integral part of the AMGA instructor team for the past five years. The last two years working as the Discipline Coordinator for the Alpine program where he successfully facilitated the implementation of the Ice Instructor Course.

Dale was raised in the North Cascade Mountains in the small mountain town of Winthrop, Washington. He started skiing at age 8 at the Loop Loop ski bowl and his attitude towards the mountains was quickly shaped with an affinity for adventure and exploration. His first climbing experience was a scramble with a high school buddy of Blue Peak in the Washington Pass group, which gave him a glimpse of climbers and their ability to climb the harder terrain. Shortly thereafter a solo of South Early Winter Spire resulted in a respect for that steeper terrain and a trip to the book store to buy all the how to books and guides. Dale started guiding for Cascade Alpine Guides in 1994 and then later for Mountain Madness roaming around the Cascades teaching mountaineering and rock climbing. In 2002 he and his wife Kristie moved to Colorado and in the spring of 2003 he took his first AMGA course. AMGA Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering certification quickly became the goal and was realized in 2006. Dale brings well-rounded climbing and guiding experience to the AMGA having guided difficult rock climbs, remote and elusive ice and mixed terrain in Canada as well as climbing and ski expeditions around the world. From 2003 to 2011 he worked at the Colorado Mountain School where he provided leadership as Head Guide for the last two years. Private guiding is now his focus. He runs a month long ice climbing trip to Canada every winter and custom rock, alpine and ski trips wherever the conditions are good. When not climbing or guiding you may find him training his Australian Shepherd or trying to break par on the links.

“It is with great pleasure that I introduce Dale Remsberg as the new Technical Director of the AMGA” says Betsy Winter, Executive Director. “Dale comes to us with a wealth of experience and expertise in the areas most relevant to the needs of the Technical Director position. His experience as AMGA Alpine Discipline Coordinator, AMGA Instructor Team member and AMGA Board Member will be extremely valuable as he works to oversee and lead the technical branch of the AMGA.”

September 22 UPDATE – Recyclage Calendar
Here is the current calendar for the recyclage sessions up to, and including this coming spring.  Sessions #8, 9 and 17 are still available, as well as all May and June sessions.  There is no mention of September so I just wrote to ask about it.  Sessions for fall of 2012 to spring of 2013 will be scheduled at the beginning of 2012.

Position Statements
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Majka Burhardt
Boulder, Colorado
mb@majkaburhardt.com
Joined AMGA: 1999

AMGA Certification(s): AMGA Certified Rock Guide

Education: B.A., Anthropology, Princeton University

M.F.A., Creative Writing, Warren Wilson Program for Writers

Occupation: Owner, Writer, Climber, Guide, Majka Burhardt LLC.

In 2008 I ran for the AMGA BOD and told you all I wanted to be on the Board, in part, to give voice to guides certified in a single discipline to expand a necessary conversation that would address the full diversity of our organization. In the past three years I have served on the Board and seen the need for the attention to this and other important issues. What I have also seen is a need to understand and support the collective voice of the AMGA beyond and through the individual issues. If I serve a second term it is this honest collaboration I will support and cultivate.

The AMGA is a unique organization made up of unique individuals. I’m drawn to make us the best collective we can be.

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Marc Chauvin
North Conway, New Hampshire
marc@chauvinguides.com
Joined AMGA: 1986

AMGA Certification(s): AMGA Certified Alpine, Rock & Ski Mountaineering Guide, IFMGA

Education: Professional Technical Training and Certification in Mountain Guiding through the AMGA

Occupation: Owner & Mountain Guide, Chauvin Guides International

My involvement with the AMGA began at its inception and I received my IFMGA certification soon after the AMGA’s inclusion. I’ve been working as an instructor and a technical committee member for much of that time. The only exception was during a few year period where I was working on a certification based access plan similar in nature to the Certified Guides Co-op.

My focus as an AMGA board member will be twofold:

·  The quality of our professional training and certification program

·  Turning that certification into a license to practice.

Clients should have the opportunity to climb with guides that are trained and hold a license to practice. This is the reality in other professions that have public safety responsibilities, from a barber to a physician. I will advocate for that and at meetings I will have that as my main priority steering my vote as daily decisions are made.

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Nate Disser
Durango, Colorado
nate@swaguides.com
Joined AMGA: 2004

AMGA Certification(s): AMGA Certified Alpine & Rock Guide

Education: B.A. Psychology, State University NY at Geneseo

B.A. Interpersonal & Organizational Communication, State University NY at Geneseo

Occupation: Owner, Director & Guide, Southwest Adventure Guides

The AMGA constitutes a diverse group of individuals with a common goal – the betterment of our profession. Consequently, it is important that the members select board members who possess both the capacity to represent all the members of the AMGA and the ability to comprehend the issues that the AMGA faces as it works to advance the vision, mission, and goals of the organization.

As the owner of an AMGA Accredited Guide Service based in Colorado, and a Certified Rock & Alpine Guide, I will bring relevant experience, knowledge, and perspective to facilitate progress toward the following goals:

• Increased access to public lands
• Future AMGA program design and continuity
• Customer service for course and exam participants
• Opportunities for membership expansion
• Brand recognition
• Guide/Guide Service collaboration for permit access

In addition, and perhaps most importantly, I would bring a high level of dedication and commitment to the responsibility of serving on the board.

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Rob Hess
Jackson, Wyoming
rob@jhmg.com
Joined AMGA: 1998

AMGA Certification(s): AMGA Certified Alpine, Rock & Ski Mountaineering Guide, IFMGA

Education: IFMGA Training and Certification through the AMGA

Occupation: Owner & Chief Guide, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides

AMGA Technical Director

Instructor/Examiner AMGA Instructor Team

As an active and highly committed member of the AMGA, I am running for the Board of Directors of the AMGA. I cycled off of an elected board position in 2009 but remained as a professional director as per the Technical Director position. In my 6 years as an elected Board member, I never missed a Board meeting.

As an IFMGA licensed guide, AMGA Instructor and Examiner, Guide service owner/operator I bring to the table a perspective that is essential to a balanced and productive organization. Simply, I understand the issues that face all guides.

I pushed hard for and voted to support ALL access initiatives for independent guides (CGF, CGC), I understand the issues, concerns and realistic costs of doing business on the part of guide service owners.

I ask for your confidence and subsequent vote so that I might continue to add a balanced and well thought out perspective to the AMGA.

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Nat Patridge
Jackson, Wyoming
nat@exumguides.com
Joined AMGA: 1998

AMGA Certification(s): AMGA Certified Alpine, Rock & Ski Mountaineering Guide, IFMGA

Education: B.S., Geology/Environmental Studies, St. Lawrence

Occupation: President, Director of Operations, Exum Mountain Guides

My name is Nat Patridge and I am a career mountain guide who has worked in this profession since graduating from college in 1993. My eighteen year guiding career began at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort where I co-created the out of bounds guide operation now known as the JH Alpine Guides. I have worked for NOLS, Valdez Heli Ski Guides and High Mountain Heli. My current position is co-owner, President and Director of Operations for Exum Mountain Guides which is an 80 year guide service of 65 guides, 11 of whom are IFMGA licensed.

I am proud to be AMGA certified, to be part of this passionate and talented community, to be President of a large and old guide service and foremost to be a mountain guide. This experience and current work will enable me to be an effective board member of the AMGA. Thank you.

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Scott Schell
Seattle, Washington
info@cgcoop.org
Joined AMGA: 1998

AMGA Certification(s): AMGA Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide

Education: A.A., Environmental Studies

Occupation: Executive Director, Certified Guides Co-op

I have been a member of the AMGA for over 13 years.

My background includes working as a certified Ski Mountaineering Guide, managed a highly successful ski touring retail shop in the northwest, ski mountaineering book author, and I am currently the Executive Director of the Certified Guides Co-op (CGC).

The AMGA Board and staff work to strengthen our AMGA brand and to create a strategic plan for the organization. One of the most important and complex issues we face is land access. I believe my extensive work with the AMGA Board and the CGC allows me to bring unique guidance and perspective to this process.

I want to help create a truly sustainable profession for mountain guides, and I hope my track record speaks to my passion for working toward guides’ and the AMGA’s goals. I would appreciate your vote.

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Nice litte read over at Rock and Ice:
http://rockandice.com/component/content/article/37-tnb/1499-tnb